Rome

View of ruins from our bus.

We took an overnight train from Milan to Rome. It was an interesting trip. The train reminded us of the old East German trains we rode on our honeymoon. They don't make them like that anymore! It was a four bunk cabin, which meant the littles were doubled up with E and me. That was okay, though we might be getting a little old for that kind of thing. The bigger annoyance was the train itself which slowed and accelerated, whistled, clanged, clattered, and jerked all night long. When we arrived in Rome it was to a minor station and we had to take the metro into town. Like in Milan, there were no elevators or escaltors in the subway. It's too bad, since our decision to stick to busses caused trouble later.

We left our luggage at the hostel and headed out. Our first impressions of Rome were not great. The area around the station is pretty rough and filthy and there are lots of aggressive vendors and beggars around. But once we got to a nice bakery and picked up some breakfast to eat in a nearby park with palm trees and ruins we felt better.

The bakery, which specialized in everything cream filled.

Then what did we do? We went back to the station, of course, but only so we could catch an on and off sight seeing bus with an audio tour. It was a good thing to do, even though I'm not sure it saved us very much walking, because it gave us our bearings and taught us about places we might not have bothered with otherwise like the Vittorio Monument.

Steps to Santa Maria d`Aracoel from our tour bus.

We went to the Spanish Steps and relaxed there for a little while. We kept our eyes on a suspected pick-pocket. Luckily he didn't try anything while we were watching so we weren't called into action. We also went to Trevi Fountain, which was beautiful but mobbed. We were able to throw in our coins, though. According to superstition that means we will return to Rome someday. E didn't want to bother, but I want him to come back with me, so he finally agreed. The littles slept through this, so R and S threw coins for them. We hope that will work. Then we had some gelato and hopped back on the bus to see the Mouth of Truth. The superstition there is that if you tell a lie while holding your hand in the Mouth, the Mouth will bite it off.

S looks down the Spanish Steps

Throwing coins in the fountain.

After that we had more gelato at a very good place (top three!) next to the Pantheon, which is a two thousand year old temple. The Pantheon was a big hit with us because it was next to one of the best  gelato places and because it was different every time we saw it. The first time we saw it was during the day with the sun shining through the hole in the dome. It really is a hole. There are discreet drainage holes in the floor for when it rains.

The Pantheon

The hole in the roof.

We went to dinner around the corner. The meal was okay and the atmosphere was excellent. We ate outside with a nice view and a very Roman feel. Church bells were ringing across the street, nuns were running around, and there were lots of mopeds. About halfway through dinner our elderly waiter started playing the accordion and singing. As we were leaving we complimented him on his playing and he had us wait while he went to get his accordion. He serenaded us with the longest song ever and then bade us goodbye with hints so strong about his expected tip that it would have been less awkward if he'd just made out a bill for it. On the way home we passed the Pantheon again. It was lit up, and inside looked surprisingly different. In the low light, the statues on the walls were much more noticeable and impressive. Outside there were lots of vendors selling glow toys, which made the piazza seem festive.

Nearly full moon over the Pantheon (on the left).

The most memorable part of the day might have been the bus ride back to the main station near our hostel. Bus 40! The bus was absolutely packed full. Once you were in there was no chance of even moving your arms until the next stop when things would shift because somehow more people were getting on. It was so full people were pressed up against the windshield. Poor S spent the entire ride in the armpit of a belligerent drunk. And the whole time the bus was careening through city traffic at what felt like about fifty miles per hour. It's just as well that it was so crowded no one could fall over.